Electrical systems are GO!

The wiring is now completely replaced as follows:

1. Now Negative Earth
2. Inline LED fuse holder from + terminal to Ignition On/Off relay. This Relay controlled by the Ignition Switch and feeds the common Bus on:
3. 4-way LED fuse box. Presently 3 in use, Headlights. Horn. Ignition. The spare one could be used for indicators if I decide to fit them at at a later date.
4. Relays for: Headlights On/Off, Horn, Brake light. All mounted on a Tufnol sheet behind the r/h side panel.
5. LED tail/brake  light and LED pilot light fited.

The LEDs by the fuses will glow if a fuse blows. This was tested and found to work when I accidentally connected battery + direct to battery – while changing connections at the switch in the headlamp shell … there was a “pop” and the LED on the Main Fuse lit up.

Initially every light came on when I switched the ignition on. A bit of diagnostics and swapping of connections means lights only come on when needed.

It remains to be seen how reliable all these relays will be on a rattly old Triumph. I am making up short lengths of wiring to enable by-passing of relays if required on the road.

Pictures to follow.

 

Electrics re-think

After carefully fitting the old wiring loom a year or so ago I have pulled it out and will make my own. The old loom has too much on it that I will never use. Also, fitting relays inside the headlamp shell is tricky, there is not enough room in there. So the new thinking is to mount a new 4 – way LED fusebox on a perspex sheet mounted beside the battery behind the r/h side panel. This will also host relays for the ignition, lights on/off, hi/lo, horn and stop light.

I will also convert to negative earth at the same time so I can use modern LED based components in future.

Headlight wiring using a relay

I decided to use a standard Bosch type 5 pin relay to operate the headlamp. This takes its power from the standard Lucas headlight switch in the shell which has 3 positions: i= Off ii= Pilot iii = Headlight.

Using a “piggyback” connector I ran a fused wire from pin no 8 on the headlamp switch to pin 30 on the relay. From this piggyback connector I also ran a wire to the headlamp supply to the handlebar hi-lo switch.

pin 87A on the relay connects to the low beam pin on the H4 headlamp connector

pin 87 on the relay connects to the high beam pin on the H4 headlamp connector

pin 86 on the relay is connected to the hi beam wire from the handlebar switch

pin 85 on the relay is connected to earth.

Therefore: When the headlamp switch is moved to position iii 12v goes to pin 30 in the relay thence out of pin 87A to the low beam filament. When the handlebar switch is moved to hi it puts 12v into pin 86 which moves the internal connection to 87 and therefore the hi beam filament gets 12v from pin 30. The lo beam wire from the handlebar switch is unused.

First ride, feels good, makes racket!

Shiny! Looking pretty smart I think…

Next: Re-fit footrests securely. Should then be able to have a short test ride….

New (NOS) primary outer cover with timing inspection window.

The old cover was beaten up and had no inspection window. With this one I can strobe check the timing without oil going all over the place.

Clutch in place. Advice on fitting hydraulic clutch.

Advice on fitting the hydraulic clutch: I found bleeding the system quite easy. Before bolting up the gearbox outer case you can move it around so that any air bubbles go up the hose. Then push the slave cylinder piston back in with your fingers to push the bubbles out the top of the system Repeat a few times. Also bind the handlebar lever back overnight or longer. When you bolt up the gearbox outer cover you must do so with the slave piston pushed fully in. Then screw in the adjuster in the middle of the clutch as for a conventional system. DO NOT OPERATE THE CLUTCH LEVER UNTIL YOU HAVE DONE THIS. If you do then the slave cylinder piston will stick in the fully out position and will not move back. Then you will have to pull the gearbox outer cover off again and push it in with your fingers… You need the tension of the clutch springs to stop it pushing out too far.